6400m, halfway between camp 2 and 3 was when the weather took the turn for the worse. Winds were blowing at 80km/h and temperature of -20 degrees celcius. The heavy snowfall and ice on the ground were getting blown right onto us. Snow was knee deep and trails were getting wiped away as fast as they were getting formed. I couldn’t feel all my fingers and toes. The thought of the Belgians who got lost in the white out and had 7 fingers amputated due to frost bite came across my mind. We didn’t want to risk it. Turning back with all our digits intact was the best option. The weather was bad from that day on. We couldn’t attempt the mountain again. But 6400m was the new altitude record for me and I’m sure that I’ll be a lot more acclimatised for my next expedition to Cho Oyu,
Monthly Archives: July 2011
“We’ve been waiting in base camp since 15th for good weather. There was a short break in the weather today but the porters decided that we leave for our summit bid tomorrow instead where there is more evident forecast of good weather. So we’ll be leaving tomorrow for our 5 day summit bid and hopefully return on Sunday.”
“Came back from our 3rd and final acclimatization cycle from camp 2 (6200m, night temperature -20 degrees) where we spent 2 nights there. Weather was bad and closing in and we decided to come back to base camp where we’re resting and recuperating and waiting for good weather for our 5 day summit bid.”
Updates from Kumaran in Mustagh Ata…
“We’re into out 3rd and final acclimatisation cycle. Made it to camp 1 (5400m). Spending the night here (-9 degrees at the moment) and moving up to camp 2 (6200m) tomorrow. We will be spending 2 nights there before heading back to base camp. The mountain haas been mentally and physically challenging. A number of climbers have quit due to injuries or altitude sickness. Its very demoralising but we are still strong. Tomorrow’s climb will be extra tough.”
Week 1 of the 1st climb
Kumaran is acclimatizing at the base camp of Mustagh Ata- at 5400m above sea level. The view is incredible. (the phone reception is surprisingly good too) The weather is holding on so far.
In local languages, Mustagh Ata means ‘Ice Mountain’s father’. It is one of the prefect mountains for skiing after ascent. This climb is one of physical endurance.